|
| |
Hungary
Wine of Kings and the King of Wines
The most well-known and important wine in Hungary is Tokay-Aszú, truly one of the world's greatest sweet
wines. Louis XIV – France's Sun King – once called the wine, “vinum regum, rex vinorum,” translated as,
“the wine of kings and the king of wine.” Unfortunately, the king of wine suffered during Hungary's -year
communist regime - exports of Tokay-Aszú decreased and the vineyards were nationalized with a focus on lower
quality and higher quantity. When the communist government fell in , the vines for making Tokay-Aszú were
in a state of disrepair. With the help of investors and the creation of the Royal Tokaji Wine Company, the
Hungarian vineyards and wine industry were rebuilt.
Notable Facts
While Tokay-Aszú is the most important and most imported of Hungarian wines, it only represents about % of
the total wine produced. The rest of Hungary is spotted with over different wine regions, most cultivating
both the indigenous varieties of the country and several international varieties that arrived with the post-communism
investors. In the whites, the indigenous variety of Furmint plays double duty, making still white wines and
remaining the most crucial grape in the Tokay blend. Other indigenous varieties include Hárslevelú, Olaszrizling
(Welschriesling) and Irsai Oliver, a newcomer that produces delicious dry whites. The international varieties of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, and Muscat also play a role.
For reds, Merlotis the most popular of the
international crowd, while on the indigenous side you have Kadarka and Kékfrankos (the Hungarian name for Austria's
Blaufränkisch).
About Tokay-Aszú
Tokay is the English word for Tokaji, which is the name for the wine produced in the Hungarian region of Tokaj.
The region produces both dry and sweet wines, but is most famed for the rich sweet wine called Tokay Aszú. Like
Sauternes and sweet German wines, Tokay Aszú is made from grapes (mainly Furmint, with some Harslevelu and
occasionally a bit of Muscat) affected by the famed mold, botrytis cinerea. It is of interest to note, however,
that Tokay Aszú was made centuries before the Germans or the French discovered the rich, honeyed effect of the
noble rot.
To make Tokay-Aszú is a process:
Two sets of grapes are picked – first, the workers scan the fields, picking the Aszu grapes - those affected by
botrytis. These grapes are then gently pressed to make an Aszú paste. Grapes not affected by botrytis are then
picked and fermented into a high-acid base wine.
Once both the paste and the still wines are complete, the two are combined. The Aszú paste is added to the base
wine in amounts referred to as puttonyos (puh-TOON-yohsz). The higher the puttonyos, the sweeter the wine. Most
Tokay-Aszú on the market is between puttonyos and puttonyos.
Beyond puttonyos is Tokay Aszú Essencia. Tokay Aszú Essencia is equal in sweetness to about puttonyos, and
is made in only the best years from the best vineyards.
| |
|